Lol - well many of Jirishanca’s summits are disputed as well. A team recently reached the top of the summit ridge and turned back because the summit ridge was too dangerous - but still claimed it as an ascent. A new route, sure, but if you didn’t stand on top, you can’t claim that you have summitted it.
The one that baffles me is Chacraraju - when I first saw a photo of that, I questioned whether or not anyone had ever summited it - but as it turns out, plenty have. Cordillera Blanca is much more popular than Cordillera Huayhuash - if it wasn’t for Touching the Void happening on Sule Grande, the range would probably be entirely ignored.
And yes I must agree that summit is summit…and on that note I must just wonder if Uncle Edmond really did beat Tensing to the summit of Everest on that fateful day…
If you only count passes on the Geoseries maps, and don’t count ones referred to as gullies (e.g. Sentinel Gully, Inner Tower Gully etc), Xeni is one of only four passes I have left between the Chain Ladders and Giants Castle (Rwanqa, Camel and Hilton being the other three).
I think you will like Xeni Ghaz. Can’t believe you haven’t done Camel yet!
Just on Xeni, it has a gully to the north of the one we did (the one with the wormhole), looking up it I think you would need climbing gear on its upper parts
On an unrelated note, I am leading an MCSA meet up Camel Pass tomorrow
I am mostly interested in obscure routes, I only got Ntonjelana Pass a few months ago. I don’t think many people have done Mohlesi Pass before Camel and Ntonjelana, but such is life.
I’m very familiar with Xeni, I have done Cockade 3 times, so I know the approach well. Just a case of actually doing it. It does look like fun.
